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  Tech Tips

Is It in Drive or Not?

Posted 11/5/1997
By Mitch Belew

It doesn't matter how long a technician has fixed cars for a living, we all are guilty of forgetting the basics from time to time. Nothing can make you feel more like a fool than spending a lot of time diagnosing a problem that you might have found right away if only you had checked the basics. In some cases, it is easy to assume something else is the cause.

For example, an inoperative speed control on a 1988 Lincoln Town Car threw me a curve simply because I didn't check the basics first -- at least, not all of them. The speed control on a 1988 Lincoln Town Car is an integrated system, meaning the powertrain control module is the amplifier. The first thing you should do if it is inoperative is to pull codes -- to check for throttle position sensor and vehicle speed sensor codes. I did exactly that. There were no trouble codes. Then I proceeded to check the speed control switch voltages, servo operation and vehicle speed sensor output. All were good, but the speed control was still inoperative.

After scratching my head for what seemed like a few hours, it finally dawned on me to see if the powertrain control module "knew" that it was in drive when the shift indicator was in "D." Had the vehicle been placed into drive before connecting the scan tool to pull codes, I would have gotten a hard fault code of 67, which means that the neutral/safety switch is working properly. But I didn't do that!

In this case, I overlooked a basic test that would have saved me a lot of time. A faulty neutral/safety was the cause of the inoperative speed control. The powertrain control module did not "know" that the transmission was in drive.

When working on one of Ford's integrated speed control systems for an inoperative problem, remember this basic test. Before checking anything, first drop the transmission into drive and perform a key-on-engine-off test to see if you get a hard code 67. If the 67 or the three-digit equivalent is not there with the vehicle in drive, you have found the problem -- a faulty neutral/safety switch or circuit. Lesson learned: don't forget those basics!

Mitch Belew is ASE master and L1 certified. He is an AutoLine Ford specialist with 21 years of experience.

Acura Legend Cold Start

Posted 11/5/1997
By Marlowe Peterson

1986-1990 Acura Legends have a nasty habit of not wanting to start on cold mornings. There is a plan I have come to follow whenever I see one of these:

  • Step 1: Load test the battery. With a 240 amp load for 15 seconds, it should hold over 9.6 volts.
  • Step 2: Make sure the spark available to the end of the spark plug wires will jump a half inch gap. Use an adjustable spark tester. Cap, rotor and wire problems are common on these.
  • Step 3: Remove the four bolts that hold the engine ID placard to the top of the intake manifold. Locate the ECU ground, which attaches to the top of the intake manifold near the alternator. Remove this ground, clean it, then make an additional wire with eyelets soldered on each end to run from that attaching point to the battery. Reinstall the original ground and secure it.
  • Step 4: With the key on and engine cold, check the voltage at the coolant temperature sensor R/W wire and intake air temperature sensor R/Y wire by backprobing them. They should be very near the same voltage, typically 3.5 volts at 60 degrees F. A coolant temperature sensor may be way out of range with voltage close to 5 volts, but not so close that it sets a code 6.
  • Step 5: See if it starts by holding the throttle open. If so, fast idle should be 1500 RPM or so. If there is no fast idle, a fast idle valve that is stuck shut may be causing the problem.
  • Step 6: If the engine can be cleared out by unplugging the injector resistor, then started, and if no problems are found in the areas I mentioned, question the customer about driving habits. For example, if the car is shut off in the driveway, then started a few hours later and run just long enough to put it in the garage (or something similar where the car is started and run less than five minutes), I can pretty well guarantee it will not start the following morning.

Short trips really aggravate this condition. If the customer only drives short distances and extending the trip is not practical, try using a set of Bosch platinum spark plugs. FR7DPX is the correct application. Because these reach optimum tip temperature faster than most spark plugs, this may be a big help.

Marlowe Peterson is ASE master and L1 certified. He is an AutoLine import team leader with 30 years of experience.

Experience Identifix This information is provided by IDENTIFIX®. IDENTIFIX® resources cut diagnostic time and provide repair solutions that increase the shop's bottom line. From Repair-Trac pattern failure quick fixes, to Diagram-Online wiring diagrams by fax, to the Repair Hotline staffed by 32 master techs who specialize in diagnosing complex problems by phone or fax, IDENTIFIX® helps techicians fix more cars in less time.

For more information on IDENTIFIX, call (800) 288-6210, 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. Central Time.

www.identifix.com.

© 2008 IDENTIFIX. All Rights Reserved.

© 1997 IDENTIFIX. All Rights Reserved.


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