In the December 2000 issue of AutoInc., I shared with you my “No Comeback Starting System Chart.” My intention is that this chart will help you document your valuable time when selling service to your customers, and also act as a means of ensuring that we won't miss a crucial step while diagnosing a “No Crank” condition.

I asked for your feedback, and you did not disappoint. I received dozens of positive e-mails from across the country, but still no additions or deletions to the chart, which can still be downloaded from the December issue of AutoInc.

Cranks, But No Start

Continuing with this theme, I'm diving into the “Cranks, But No Start” abyss by dealing with a vehicle that has passed our Starting System Chart analysis with flying colors, but will not fire and run. The 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 2.8L, MPFI, DIS, with an automatic transmission came to me on a flatbed with word from the tow-truck driver that it had been “sitting for a while.”

Customer Interview

This is still the first, most important step when beginning your diagnosis. Just as a doctor will ask you, “Where does it hurt?” you must ask your customer the following:

• Is this the first time the car has failed to start? If not, how often? When?
• How did the car act up until the no-start? Any noises, driveability problems?
• Have any repairs been performed on the car recently? Before, or after, the no-start?
• Have any aftermarket accessories been installed (car alarm, stereo, trailer wiring, mobile phone, driving lamps)?

You can elicit needed information through this type of questioning, so avoid questions that only require a “yes” or “no” answer. Our Ms. Cutlass told me the Olds belonged to a friend of theirs, and it was her son's for the taking. The car was “running when it was parked” and had been sitting for a couple of years. They had towed it home, installed a new battery, poured in a couple gallons of fresh fuel, changed the oil, and attempted a start - to no avail.

Duplicate The Condition

I have to admit that I began diagnosing this car based on the year and manufacturer while walking toward it with the keys in hand. The following potential causes of a no-start came to mind for this '89 GM vehicle: defective PCM, bad crankshaft sensor, inoperative ignition module, worn-out fuel pump, squirrels/mice/rabbits that have chewed through a wiring harness. I always think of that last one, even though I've only seen it twice! I turn the ignition key and, sure enough, a strong starter reaction, but that's all. We push the car into my stall and I pull the hood release. The first sight to jump out at me is the brand-new battery nestled in a plethora of engine components connected by an intricate network of spider webbing. Everything under the hood is covered in a thick film of dirt and dust; this car certainly hasn't moved, or been washed, in years.

The Visual Inspection and Preliminary Testing

Here are some items to check during a thorough visual inspection:

• Check all wiring harnesses, connectors and major power and ground connections for tightness, corrosion and damage.
• Look for signs of removed/ replaced parts or accident damage.
• Check all fuses (circuit feedback due to a blown fuse can cause strange problems).
• Find out about the car's service history.
• Check for service codes.

The last item, checking for service codes, is not quite a visual inspection, but it can reveal crucial clues that can lead us down a repair path quickly.

Armed with my flashlight, I begin looking for signs of human tampering or rodent erosion. The wiring and vacuum hoses seem to be intact and no parts appear to have been removed. So, what's the next step? I hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail, and two spark testers to two separate plug wires, then I crank it over. The intense snapping from the spark testers just eliminated that entire system as the culprit, but the pressure gauge doesn't budge. What does this mean? It indicates that:

• The fuel tank is empty.
• My pressure gauge is defective.
• The fuel pump isn't getting sufficient power or ground.
• Power is getting to the pump, but it isn't spinning.
• The pump is working, but there is a restriction before or after it.
• The fuel pressure regulator is not restricting at all, and the fuel is dumping back to the tank.

I connect my scan tool to the ALDL and check for trouble codes, to see if there is a fuel pump voltage signal on the data list, and to see where my TPS voltage is. I find a code 33 - MAP SIGNAL TOO HIGH in memory, and I see a two-second voltage signal to the pump with KOEO and a signal also when I'm cranking. I also see that the TPS is below one volt. Since the code 33 won't prevent the fuel pump from producing, I make a note of it and continue. Note that if the TPS voltage had been more than 2.5 volts, a “clear flood” condition would have prevented the fuel injectors from receiving power.

Repair Information

At this point we know the ignition system is functioning, the PCM is awake and able to communicate, and we have no fuel pressure. There is fuel in the tank, although I have my doubts about its quality since the car sat for so long. I know that my gauge works, so I head to my information system to pull a wiring diagram for the fuel pump system. While I'm in there I also make a habit of looking up any TSBs that may pertain to my problem.

There are 23 TSBs under the “No Start - Hard Start” heading; some refer to parasitic draw, one is for incorrect “Tap Test” and one refers to fuel pump socks that aren't being replaced with pumps, resulting in premature failure of the new pumps. I look for any for my code 33, but there are none.

On Car Testing

I grab my DVOM and roll under the back of the Olds. I back-probe the power and ground leads with two straight pins, clip on my meter leads, then crank the car - 10.7 volts is available to this point and I'm hearing no noise at all from the pump, so now I need to price parts and call the customer.

Perform the Repair

I get approval for a fuel pump, sock, filter and inspection of the fuel tank and its contents for contamination. I warn the customer that although I have identified a defective component, there may still be further issues once the pump is spinning again, especially since the vehicle history is unknown. To use my friend Gary's analogy, I liken this type of diagnostic procedure to digging a well: You don't know how far down the water is until you actually hit it. The same is true for this type of repair, but it is especially true for emission failures and intermittent failure diagnosis.

Once I pull the tank down and look inside with my flashlight, I see floating chunks, and one of the worst cases of tank rust that I've seen. Next, I pull the filter out to see if there is rust past the outlet port, and there is evidence of it. I call Ms. Cutlass to let her know that, due to the extensive rust, we should replace the tank along with the pump parts and the filter. I also warn her that there may be some rust in the lines past the filter. I get approval for all of the above along with a back flushing of the fuel lines from the fuel rail back to the pump, but I still warn her of the potential problems further downstream with the injectors or the regulator.

With a new (used) tank in place, fresh fuel, new filter and sock, and clean lines, I attempt a start. With the key on, I have 42 PSI on my fuel pressure gauge. I'm confident as I crank the engine over. Still a no-start. After a shot of ether in the air intake I try it again. The engine roars to life for a second, then dies. At this point I have a feeling that the rust went as far as the injectors, so I pop off the upper intake manifold and hook up my fuel injector tester to one of the injectors, and then the rest. When I activate the tester, NONE of the injectors drops the pressure on my gauge even one PSI. The same is true when I pull out the entire rail and watch the tips; no fuel squirts from any of the injectors. Check out the photo of the rail with two injectors removed. All of that rust sprinkled from the open ports when I tapped the rail on my bench!

The good news is that since I installed a new set of injectors and a regulator, the car runs great! The owner is happy to invest in these parts since it was a “free” car in the first place.

Logical Troubleshooting Sequence - The Chart

The “No Start - No Fuel” chart assumes that the mechanical integrity of the engine exists and that a thorough visual inspection has been performed. It also assumes that you are familiar with the system that you're working on. For example, if you have a late model Ford that has no fuel pressure, you may automatically question the inertia switch. It may or may not have any effect on your reading, but the important thing is that you're aware of it. Another example: If you have a vehicle with dual tanks, you'll question the tank-switching valve.

It is also important to know what you can - and cannot - do. For instance, I recently looked at a Ford Aerostar with a long crank time complaint, along with fuel pressure that would drop immediately after the pump turned off. This diagnosis involved pinching off fuel lines to determine where the fuel was bleeding off. After pinching the fuel return line, the pressure held. Replacing the regulator cured the problem. Straightforward, right? It would have turned into a nightmare if the flexible hoses had been lined with non-compressible sleeves, as some are. Always look up the system you're working on and follow all safety precautions.

The “No Start - No Fuel” Chart This chart is a combination of all of the no-fuel, no-starts that I've run across, and all of the situations that I could think of. I have tried to incorporate all of the possibilities into this chart, but again, I welcome your input. To download the chart, click on the image on the right.

NOTE: The above chart is in .pdf format. In order to open the chart, you computer must have software that views .pdf files. You can download a free copy of Adobe Reader, visit the Adobe Web site at: http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/acrobat/readstep.html#reader. The chart is a large file and may take a few minutes to download.

Brian Manley is a vocational automotive instructor for the Cherry Creek school district in Aurora, Colo. He is an ASE master certified automobile technician and a former member of the National Automotive Technicians Education Foundation (NATEF) board of trustees. He can be reached at manley_brian@hotmail.com.

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